Bulgaria wasn't on my list before I started the Watson. But with my new plan to reach Vienna by mid-August for the Veganmania Summer Festival , I figured I'd travel through Bulgaria, Serbia, and Hungary after leaving Istanbul. Beyond exploring some serendipitous project-related opportunities, I've also become fascinated by the history of the city. I enjoyed visiting The Red Flat, an apartment-turned-into-museum that offers visitors a glimpse into everyday life in Bulgaria during the socialist era. I also went on a Communist Tour . These activities have nothing to do with vegan foodscapes and community-building, but they greatly interest me and help me put into perspective some of my own life experiences growing up in China—you know what I mean? I think visiting countries that have transitioned from socialism or communism to democracy would be a great Watson project. If only I could have a second Watson year...
I find Sofia a very walkable city. There are lots of parks and public spaces, which are partially a legacy of the communist era in Bulgaria. Since there was an emphasis on creating public spaces that could be used for recreation, leisure, and communal activities, many residential neighborhoods were designed to include gardens and small parks. Prior to that, Sofia was also envisioned as a garden city already in the early 20th century, which meant integrating green spaces within the city's layout. There are many statues and sculptures in the parks here, often to commemorate significant historical figures, cultural icons, and important events. This Trabant Monument is titled "With respect to the driving forces," which pays homage to the Trabant, an iconic car from the former East Germany. It used to be a symbol of the Eastern Bloc during the Cold War era. Monument dedicated to Stefan Stambolov, who served as the Prime Minister of Bulgaria after the country gained independence from the Ottoman Empire, which ruled Bulgaria for nearly 500 years. The split head symbolizes his brutal assassination in 1895. Living room in the red-flat. During most of the socialist period, Bulgaria had only one or two state-controlled television channels. Living rooms often turned into a bedroom at night because homes were not allowed to exceed 120m^2. Dining room in the Red Flat Alcohol and chocolates for special occasions State medals and orders to recognize achievements in areas such as labor, military service, public service and contributions to the socialist cause Communist-era Balkan Bike The kitchen in the Red Flat Inside what used to be the Sofia Mall, the only shopping center in the city during the socialist era The "Triangle of Power" in the center of Sofia: the Council of Ministers (left), the President's Office (right), and the former Communist Party Headquarter (middle) The Central Mineral Baths built in the early 20th century and used as the city's public baths until 1986. Now it houses the Regional History Museum of Sofia. A segment of the Berlin Wall, brought to Sofia in 2006 as a gift from the German government, to symbolize solidarity with Bulgaria and the broader Eastern European region in their transitions from communist regimes to democratic societies. I visit fresh produce markets everywhere I go. This was the Ladies' Bazaar, the oldest market in Sofia that began at the end of the 19th century and has been relocated a few times since. It dates back to the Ottoman period when ladies were not allowed to go shopping elsewhere but in the area of this bazaar. And they could only dare do so on Fridays. I'm so glad I wasn't alive there then... Scenes like this reminds me of my childhood. I often went grocery shopping with my mother, who liked to buy vegetables and herbs from the elderly that farmed small plots of land in and around my hometown and carried them on their shoulders to sell at markets or at the roadside. Calling my fellow eggplant lovers! Figs, figs, figs! Last Saturday, Oborishte District in Sofia organized an event called "The Big Table" with the idea of bringing people in the neighborhood together. I stumbled upon it while on a jog and spotted a vegan cheese brand. I later interviewed the founder, who was among the first cohort of the ProVeg Incubator Program. Wonderful encounter! By the way, wouldn't it be fantastic to have such "Big Table" events with all plant-based foods? Vegan potlucks gotta take to the street!